The CCA/NYYC Guadeloupe Cruise

The raison d’etre for much of our season this year was the CCA/NYYC Guadeloupe Cruise. We spent months planning for it (as cruise chairs) and working our way toward Deshaies, Guadeloupe, where the festivities would begin,

On March 16, planning turned into reality and despite the mooring balls all being occupied and the anchorage in Deshaies being quite full, eventually 9 of the 13 boats that signed up for the cruise, found anchor room in the harbor, as they began to show up that afternoon. (We were already there on a mooring ball and 3 other boats arrived the next day.) As boats arrived, we delivered check-in clearance papers for many of the boats, that were secured by our local yacht concierge service so the crews could go ashore and get acquainted with the town. 

Roel Hoekstra and John Folks’ boat, Mary Lee, brought down our intended crew (former boat partners, Jeff & Kathy) but unfortunately, they had been on board less than a few hours when we had to evacuate Jeff with a 103.7 temperature. It was an ordeal trying to get a taxi and speak with doctors, none of whom spoke much English, but we eventually got them to a doctor and released (with a Denge diagnosis) to a relatively comfortable hotel. 

The next day, the 3 additional boats arrived, crews spent time repositioning their boats to get a mooring, swimming, walking around town or the beach, and taking island tours while we delivered Jeff & Kathy’s bags to shore, as they had to bow out of the cruise to get more rest for Jeff.

That afternoon, our kickoff event was held at Le Jardin de Botanique; including private tours, cocktails & buffet dinner. The gardens were a hit (although they seemed a bit less lush than the last time we were here in 2020) and the venue for the buffet was spectacular; in the outdoor restaurant overlooking a waterfall. Food was good and drinks were plenty, and I think everyone had a pretty good time.

 

On March 18th, the plan was for the fleet to sail to Pigeon Island and enjoy snorkeling in the Jacques Cousteau Park but the weather was a little rough and some boats decided to head straight to Isles des Saintes (our final destination). Others, including Billy Ruff’n, decided to head toward Pigeon and evaluate conditions. On the way, Billy Ruff’n had a fire drill when Andrew noticed our dinghy motor hanging off the dinghy! We quickly went into problem solving mode and got the jib rolled in and slowed the boat while Andrew climbed in the dinghy. We hoisted our 200 lb motor onto the big boat while underway in chop… quite a feat that we will never be so lazy to have to do again!! Normally, we hoist the motor before getting under way but it seemed a short trip and mild conditions (at the start). Live and learn.

Billy Ruff’n, MaryLee and Bermudian Escape spent the night near Pigeon, in the more protected Bouliante Bay and enjoyed swimming in the hot spring, eating local fare on shore with workers from the nearby geothermal plant that day and getting together on the boats for evening activities. 

The following day, the rest of us headed off to Isles des Saintes to join the fleet. Arriving around 11:30, there were no mooring balls available off the main town and the anchoring behind the mooring field was deep so the 3 amigos (Billy Ruff’n, MaryLee and Bermudian Escape) were able to secure moorings off Ilet Cabri, the small island just across from the main town. After settling on our moorings, we went in town for lunch at Cafe de La Marine, right off the dinghy dock on the water, where we found at least half of the other CCA/NYYC cruisers enjoying marinated fish salad, tuna tartar, and lobster risotto, along with the soothing sound of the clarinetist playing “La Vie en rose” on the beach and taking collections in his hat from the restaurant goers... so very French!

After lunch, we walked around a bit with Kate & Roel, provisioned some and returned to the boat to see a printed envelope with an invitation to cocktails sitting in our cockpit. In 5 yeas of doing this live-aboard thing in the Caribbean, this was a first. I guess because we were cruise chairs, we had the honor of being invited to join Bob, and his partner Greg, on board their beautiful 96 foot sailing yacht, Altair, along with small group of CCA/NYYC cruisers including the Commodore and Vice Commodore of the CCA. It was the highlight of our cruise so far. We were received by the boat captain, who took our painter and valeted our dinghy. We boarded the boat and were offered a glass (not plastic) of wine, and proceeded below to violin music coming from the mahogany wood and oriental rug clad main salon, bedecked with a gorgeous Chihuly glass sculpture! We toured the engine room and learned about the 1500 gallon water tanks, 2500 gallon fuel tanks, 8 battery banks, etc, from the very young but highly qualified captain. It was amazing and we were thrilled to be included.

On March 20, the last day of our cruise, we organized an impromptu barbecue lunch on Ilet Cabrit. Crew arrived by dinghy with their own lunch and something to put on the fire pits that we had set up. Some folks walked up the hill to the fort for the view of the harbor. Others swam or snorkeled off the beach. Everyone seemed to enjoy the spur of the moment gathering, including Casey, one of the captains, who took his lunch in the water.

That evening, we had our closing dinner at Ti Kaz La, a fabulous restaurant on the beach. It would have been perfect if the municipality hadn’t forbidden tables on the beach since we couldn’t fit everyone in the restaurant at a table. Instead, some chairs were lined up in the sand but, one of our most enterprising participants took the bull by the horns and stuffed chairs around the tables until everyone had a place to sit. Once the buffet was served, we started the food line with those that had the make shift seats and ended with our table. Because no one understood that the first round of food were appetizers, people filled up their plates and we didn’t get any of the highly anticipated octopus, lobster tail salad and tuna tartar, appetizers but we made do with being first in the main course line and enjoyed our fair share of Tahitian fish, beef fillet, shitake salad and penne rigate salad.

Once the paid for drinks ran out (probably around 20:00) and before dessert came, we got music & dancing going and even the serving staff, who were being asked to accommodate this wild bunch, were dancing in the restaurant with us! In the end, I think everyone enjoyed the food and fun and I believe we managed to pull off a successful cruise.