Waiting it out at the party!

On 2/19 we left Dominica for Martinique, expecting 15 - 20 knots of wind and moderate seas. We found an average 25 knots of wind, gusts over 30 and 6 to 8 foot seas, but nothing Billy Ruff’n couldn’t handle. The ~five other boats in the 25 mile square space between the two islands, all found each other at once! We had to navigate a tug towing a luxury yacht, a ferry (that was not on our radar) going 25 knots and a handful of sailboats, in the space of a few nautical miles. We made the trip in good time, going an average 8.5 knots under a double reefed main and jib. Upon arrival in St. Pierre, we saw a few of our Salty Dawg friends in port but were too tired to launch the dinghy or go in town. We had dinner on board and got to bed early.

The next day, we heard on the radio that our friends were weighing anchor and headed to Fort de France for Carnival, so we decided we would take their spot in the harbor, closer to town. However, our windlass (the motor that pulls the anchor up) had something else in store. It crapped out and changed our plans entirely. We took the dinghy in town to check in to the pretty municipal building and I got to use my minimal French again to navigate the town. After a nice lunch at a seaside cafe, where the water seemed bluer than blue, we set out to find the one and only mechanic in town. Apparently, he was no longer around but we got to see some nice views of the harbor and briefly visit the museum that displays the story of how the town was completely destroyed in 1902 by the volcanic eruption of Mt. Pelee.

After a few phone calls to boat services folks speaking mostly French, we decided we needed to head toward Marin, one of the Caribbean’s largest yacht centers on the southern end of Martinique, where we were most likely to find a good technician. Rather than making the ~ 30 mile trip in one shot, and arrive on the Friday before Carnival when everything closes down for the weekend, we thought we would break the trip up and head for Fort de France, where we could look into getting assistance at the well regarded Sea Services chandlery. A quick motor sail and we were able to pick up a mooring at Z’Abricots Marina, just east of town.

Fort de France is the capital of Martinique and has a large bay for visiting cruise ships to share with hundreds of anchored boats. The harbor is rimmed by Fort St. Louis, which is apparently an active navy base, the dinghy dock and a beach with a children’s playground and park. Quite a backdrop for the upcoming Carnival, which consists of four days of colorful parades and general hoopla. We quickly got re-accustomed to the delicious food that you find in French islands, including the fabulous pizza and baguettes, and found a very helpful lady in the chandlery, who arranged for a mechanic to visit our boat the next day.

Marc, the mechanic, showed up fashionably late the next day but speaking very good English. What a break from the challenges we were having trying to communicate over the phone! He and Andrew spent the next hour or so tearing apart the boat, opening up drawers and cabinets, and getting every tool on board out in order to troubleshoot where the breakdown was for the windlass. We finally came to the conclusion that it was the motor and would require a rebuild (if possible) or replacement, but the technician we need wouldn’t be available until after Carnival.

So, here we are in Fort de France at Carnival time. No one is working so we have to wait it out at the party!!