Our first week in Trinidad

On May 17th we arrived in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, informed Powerboats marina of our arrival and dropped anchor while they worked on securing our Health Clearance. After an hour or so, we were able to move to our slip on C dock. Andrew expertly backed into a relatively narrow cement med moor dock without panicking me or the boat owners on either side. We met Rawle Walker, infamous for taking care of Billy Ruff’n for the prior owner. We were told to look for the skinny guy in a red jumpsuit and sure enough he was the first fellow we shook hands with on land.

We borrowed the marina dinghy to go across the inlet to Customs & Immigration. That was a bit of an onerous process: sitting in drab rooms, completing multiple forms with the same information on them, in carbon copy triplicate and getting questions answered reluctantly by the bored, but generally pleasant employees hired to facilitate. After another hour, we handed the papers over and with barely a glance at us or the papers; stamp, stamp. “You may go” they said. Welcome to Trinidad!

That evening we met a lot of Trinidad cruising regulars (including the Chris Doyle team of cruising guide authors) at the bring-your-own barbecue under the Powerboats roti hut.

The next morning, we treated ourselves to our first doubles breakfast. This is a hard to described but fabulously delicious Trinidadian specialty made on flat fried dough with curried chick peas and various chutneys. The mother-son team that serve them outside of Powerboats marina make the best I’ve had yet!

That day, we started to make appointments to meet with vendors and service providers to discuss various jobs that we want to get done while we are here. On Saturday, I went to the fresh market in Port of Spain in a yachtie organized taxi with new friends Josie, Shannon and others from the BBQ. There were fish, meats, fruits & veges covering a city block with a few unusual and oversized items I couldn’t identify.

That evening, we walked out of the marina compound gates to enjoy the excellent ribs at WheelHouse Restaurant with friends on Roxy, Solmate and more Powerboat regulars that were saying goodbye for the season to one of their own.

On Sunday, I participated in the regular game of Mexican Train dominos and met some more Powerboats regulars as well as newbies. By Monday, it was time to get down to work. Andrew and Rawle were side by side with their heads in the bilge most of the day and we met with Rico, one of the yard managers to discuss our plans. Over the next few days, he helped us accomplished the following:

1) installed a loaner A/C over the forward hatch on the boat

2) had an initial meeting w/ Hilton, the plumber, and determined that we need to get a contract for new vents for our water system and replacement hoses for (or removal of) the Electroscan sanitation system.

3) met with Keith, the refrigerator guy, and determined that we need to order and install new gauges & sensors

4) loaded & delivered a truck full of lines, canisters, ditch bags, etc. to our storage unit.

5) set up the mechanics to prep the dinghy motor for storage.

6) got the beautiful Moroccan mirror that hung in our head, repaired from the body slam Andrew delivered on our way south in November. 

7) had a new T-clamp made to replace the broken one that supports the glass hatch above the companionway.

8) loaded the floorboards & delivered a second truck full to the storage unit.

On Tuesday, we moved into our neat, little apartment which is convenient to the boat, the roti hut, the doubles stand and the marina services & office. All in all, it’s already been a productive week and it’s only Wednesday!

Living like a Grenadian

On April 30th we left Carriacou for St. George’s, Grenada. It was a fantastic 5 hour sail with consistent 15-20 knots winds on the port beam. Upon arrival, we picked up a mooring outside of the harbor since our slip at Port Louis Marina wasn’t available until the next day. Andrew cooked up some fish in sauce from our leftover lobster and we enjoyed a fabulous sunset.

The next day, we motored into the marina and checked in to a skinny slip inside the main dock. Good location, tight turn for the Billy! After tying up, I made my way to the swimming pool with a fancy drink while Andrew says he cleaned up the boat (but probably napped a bit too)! Our location is right by the main road to town so we hear horns all day & night (which I think they use to say hello to each and every passing car). Otherwise, we are down below and insulated from the noise but more subject to the heat!! That evening was pretty calm though and I got a cool picture of the boats reflecting in the still water of the marina.

The next day, Andrew and I walked to Island Water World for various supplies. On the way back, we bought mangos from Mango Man, whose stand is across from the entrance to the marina. Later that day, I got 5 bags of leftover provisions from a group that I had met at the pool and were cleaning out their charter boat. I went to share some of the extra pasta, meats & frozen items with Mango Man, but he wasn’t at his stand when I went to deliver so I got to know some of the neighbors looking for him.

Later that day, we cleaned the dinghy bottom, which meant hoisting about 400 lbs onto the dock and flipping it over to scrub the green stuff growing on the bottom with paint scrappers. After that, two young men came to test our refrigerator, since it seemed to be running perpetually and draining the battery. They were good natured young fellas that had just finished refrigeration school and were anxious to learn and get experience. They also had no idea what they were doing and were kinda amusing to watch as they discussed how to go about things.

That evening, Edwin & Karen (on s/v Frog’s Leap) visited us on the boat for sundowners and we went out to dinner afterward at Umbrella’s. The ride over on the public bus was entertaining as the driver bumped and swerved along the windy roads at what seemed like 80 miles an hour, while blaring Caribbean music so you couldn’t hear the person next to you talk, even though we were nearly sitting on top of one another. Anytime someone in the back needed to get out, half the bus had to unload to let them out and file back in again. We had no idea where we were going or where to get out but fortunately, the kindly Grenadians let us know what to do and we arrived safely at the festive and friendly beach bar & restaurant and ordered some very tasty burgers and fish tacos. We split a taxi back!!

The next day was topside dinghy cleaning, some okay chicken roti from the local bakery and otherwise preparing for me to fly to Boston to visit the kids and grandkids. After all, it was our third granddaughter 1st birthday and I wanted to be there!

I returned on May 8th and got right back into being Grenadian. I walked to St. George’s to get a Grenada Yacht Club burgee for the CYC collection and then to town to buy Andrew a new pillow. It was quite a walk, so halfway there, I hopped on the bus. I asked the driver if he knew a store in town where I could buy a pillow and a few of the ladies on board said “all of them”! Sure enough, almost every store had the same collection of cheaply made knick knacks and paraphernalia, except for plain white pillows. I had to stop in a few of them before I found what I wanted. 

The next day, we met Eric & Arliss, on s/v Corroboree, who had just completed a six year circumnavigation! I was fun to chat with them and hear about what they had done on a 35 foot boat with a free standing mast!!

On May 11th, we motor-sailed around the south end of Grenada to Prickly Bay. We picked up a mooring off of the marina and started preparations for our upcoming sail to Trinidad. That Friday, we had dinner at the marina restaurant where the evenings entertainment was a young boy playing guitar and singing with his mothers band. I couldn’t really tell if he was any good (because I think his microphone may have been off) but he was very expressive and totally enjoying himself!

That Saturday, Andrew’s phone crashed during an upgrade and we had to find a tech store. We took the dinghy to Budget Marine, where the cabbies hangout, and met Alfred. Alfred took us to the place we had found online called Global Tech. It was difficult to find because it’s located in a container in the parking lot of a strip mall. Unfortunately, the guy who worked on Apple phones wasn’t on island but would return the following Wednesday. They offered to take Andrew’s phone and have the guy look at it (for $180 EC) when he returned. No thanks! Alfred said he ‘had a guy’ so we called and determined that he could see us on Monday, so we made a date with Alfred on Monday.

Sunday was Mother’s Day! I made breakfast (banana/ mango pancakes & bacon), scrubbed the bottom of the big boat, and lubricated the zippers and snaps all around. For my reward, I got to talk to my kids and grandkids and went out to dinner at Spice Affair, a good (but expensive) Indian place within walking distance of the marina.

On Monday, Alfred took us to Mobile Tech, his friend’s place and after about an hour or so, the proprietor was able to download the appropriate firmware and we paid him $120 EC for the fix. We asked Alfred to take us to a good local lunch spot for takeout so he turned up this pitted dirt road passed a dilapidated sign that read “Dexter’s Restaurant”. Didn’t look like it would amount to much but we arrived  at a tidy white house behind the blue porched restaurant with a view. Inside were these two wonderful ladies working away at preparing our lunch. Andrew and I shared the pork ribs with the sides of the day (potato salad, green salad, plantains & rice). It was very flavorful and a great deal for $20 EC (about $7 US dollars). 

Tuesday we met up with Alfred again (well actually his brother at first)! Andrew’s apps hadn’t downloaded so we had to go back to Mobile Tech but while we were waiting we met Amy from Heritage Farms. She was selling really nice looking frozen meats & fish including New York strip, sock eye salmon and more.  Amy told us the story of how she and her husband (a Grenadian) wanted to raise cattle on the island but when the land deal didn’t go through, they started importing meats from the U.S. I’m hoping to pick up an order from her tomorrow as we continue to prep for our overnight sail to Trinidad. We’ll let you know when we get there!!

Heading south to Grenada

On April 23rd we left at 9am for an 11 mile motor sail to Canouan. Immediately upon arrival in Charlestown Bay, we were met by two men in skiffs; the older one selling fresh lobster and the younger one offering to take our trash, pick up groceries or whatever we wanted. These guys had their pitches down! The lobster guy said his lobster was bigger and less expensive than Tobago Cay (where we were headed next for lobster on the beach). We relented and for $150 EC (approx. $50 U.S.) per person, we bought two 5 lb lobster, which the guy proceeded to tie in a potato sack with one of our lines so the lobster would stay alive, draped in the water off our boat until we were ready to cook. I got this funny feeling, someone would come by in scuba gear, cut the line and swim off with our prize, so we decided to stay on the boat.

When we asked the grocery boy how he got groceries on a Sunday, when the stores were closed, he said his mother owned the shop and he could get us anything. These are the lines you need to watch out for! He may have been perfectly legit but we have heard stories of folks giving someone like this money to pick something up and never seeing them again.

Anyway, the lobster dinner was enormous and delicious and enough to make lobster salad for lunch the next day as well so it didn’t matter when we got to Tobago Cay and it was less expensive.

The next morning, after rescuing the ‘grocery boy’ who’s motor conked

out next to our boat, we headed off to Tobago Cay. On the way out of the harbor, we couldn’t help but notice the giant Sandy Cove Yacht Club sign in bright red, which we later found out is a really nice, but expensive, marina.

We arrived in Tobago Cays in the afternoon and headed to the mooring field closest to the turtle sanctuary. As we passed thru the cut, were greeted by Mike & Wanda (on s/v Going to the sun), whom we just met in Mustique. We picked up a mooring, with the help of Mandy Man, that looked out over the ocean, completely calmed by the barrier reef. 

As soon as we settled in, I donned my snorkel gear and jumped in the water to find me some turtles. The first thing I saw were the enormous, dinner plate sized starfish and then as I got closer to the dive buoys, I saw two gigantic turtles, as big as a dinner table, and a half dozen small to medium ones. The big ones don’t surface much but the others will swim up right next to you. 

The next day, Andrew and I took the dinghy to the beach to walk around a bit and snorkel along the shore. Besides the view from the little hill, the best sights were back in the turtle sanctuary.

That evening, we took the dinghy to another beach for our (less expensive) lobster dinner served by Mandy Man. On the way over we caught a beautiful purple and red sunset gleeming thru the cut and arrived to find tables full of people awaiting their grilled selections. Wanda and Mike joined us at the table and we enjoyed getting to know them better.

On 4/26, we left Tobago Cay for Clifton Bay on Union Island. We had to stop here to check out of The Grenadines as we were continuing to work our way south. We dropped off some laundry and picked up some Corvalli fish (for $30 EC), and prepared to make way to Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, the next day. There, we needed to check in to Grenada, but the entire island’s power was out (due to a fire in the power station), so we came back the next morning. Here’s Andrew changing our flags as we approach:

True to Caribbean form, no one was in the office the next morning at 9am (when they told us to return) but fortunately, the cafe next door was open and we could get a nice omelette and more coffee for breakfast. Around 10am someone showed up at the Customs office to a dozen sailors lined up to check in. We were 4th in line and it went pretty quickly so we had time to do some errands and move the boat around the corner to Paradise Beach, in time for lunch.

We had a really nice lunch at Off the Hook, a casual place with brightly colored picnic tables and Adirondack chairs on the beach, good food and friendly service. We got to talking with the proprietor, who was a young lady who had just inherited the place and moved back home (from New York) to make a go of it. She had made a good start and was interested in feedback on everything to make it better. 

When we got back from lunch, Evening Star, Solmate and Chilli Pepper showed up in the harbor so we made plans to try out another beach bar with them for dinner. Paradise Beach Bar was a fun place too; decorated with plaques that sailors had painted with their boat names on ‘paint your own plaque’ night. Andrew and I shared a fish dish and enjoyed a beautiful evening with the gang. The next day, we would all be going our separate ways, hopefully to meet again soon.

Visiting the rich & famous on Mustique

On April 20th, we left Bequia for Mustique. The weatherman had been calling for light air, which we thought would be good for this east bound voyage, but it wasn’t to be. Instead, it blew 15-20 on the nose with 5-6 foot seas. On top of that, the compass on our GPS decided to act up, making our autopilot think we were going north when we were going east, resulting in the boat looking like it was crab walking all the way there on our Raymarine navigation system.

Fortunately, it only took a few hours of hand steering and pounding into the wind to arrive at Britannia Bay. We picked up a mooring next to our friends on Evening Star, with assistance from it’s captain, Denny, a former Admiral in the navy, and settled in behind our other friends on Solmate. Shortly thereafter, we were visited by the Mustique Moorings men, who charged $120 (US) for 3 days, whether we stayed that long or not, and instructed us on where we could and couldn’t go on the island. 

That evening, Jen & Adam on Solmate, graciously invited all The Dawgs in town (and some) to their boat for pot luck dinner. Miraculously, everyone showed up with something delicious and different. We met our other mooring neighbors, Debra & Scott (on s/v Grand View), Mike & Wanda (on s/v Going to the Sun), John & Ann (on s/v Chilli Pepper), and tried to get as many sailors as we could on Solmate’s roof top deck. It was good fun!!

Since Mustique is a privately owned island, by many rich & famous fashion folks and a musician or two, when they said we could go to the little village off the dinghy dock (to the north) and down the beach to the first hut (to the south), they were serious. Any other ventures on the island needed to be with an official tour guide/taxi driver. So, the next day, we ventured into the village, which includes the famous Basil’s Bar (where Mick Jagger has been known to take the stage, as he is a landowner here), a liquor store, a grocery, a bakery, a couple cute shops with very expensive clothing and trinkets and a fish market on the beach… pretty much all a sailor needs (sans the expensive items)! 

Basil’s Bar

Fish market

Around noon, we had one of the two taxi drivers on the island, take us (and the crew of Grand View) to meet up with Solmate and Evening Star for lunch at The Cotton House, one of the fanciest hotels in the Caribbean. I had an excellent quinoa & beet salad and Andrew had a good burger, as we watched the presumably rich & famous lunching around us. 

The Cotton House beach restaurant

Afterwards, we were supposed to go on an island tour but our taxi driver had a flat so we settled for a few more fancy drinks while he texted us that he would be right there. An hour or so later, we got to go on the tour and it was worth the wait. We drove past Mick Jaggers estate. We saw the monster homes of Tommy Hilfiger, Bryan Adams and Jack Daniels built into the hills overlooking Macaroni Beach (although I’m not sure which was which), the Royal House where English royalty stay and the blue tile house owned by Louis Vuitton. Our driver, Kennest, kept mentioning ‘the terrorist’ place on the highest peak of the island, which was now for sale for $200 million. We later learned he was saying “the terraces” and there were no terrorists involved. Apparently, we also saw the homes of Gucci and Timberland, but they mostly looked like long driveways with lots of trees.

Mick Jagger’s place

Tommy Hilfiger, Bryan Adams and Jack Daniels’ homes somewhere in these hills

Louis Vuitton’s blue tile roof

Kennest took us down a rocky path (in the car, which clearly explained the flat) to black sand beach, where they’ve built a hut for people to sign their names. I made sure it was known Billy Ruff’n was there! Back in the village, we bought fresh tuna from the fishermen, just in with their catch, and went back to the boat to cook it up.

The next day, all of our friends in the harbor left but we had planned to stay all 3 days so we spent the time updating the blog, snorkeling within swimming distance of the boat and enjoying lunch at Basil’s. The place has a cool, relaxed vibe with an outdoor stage and various living room seatings mixed in with wooden dining tables and shelves of books and sailing memorabilia. The food was definitely catering to the high end with a trio of tacos (chicken, fish & beef) being my choice and a burger for Andrew. It was amongst the best meals we have had all season and not too unreasonably priced. Sorry, no food pics!

Basil’s stage

That evening, we were early to bed after a light dinner, since our quest south to Grenada would commence again early the next morning…